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Author Topic: Ford Galaxy - Intercooler Replacement and Removal (115PS TDI)  (Read 11936 times)

Rated 5 times
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Offline Mirez

  • Pondering the next mod...
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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: 03 115PS Ghia
  • First Name: Mark
  • Region: South West
  • Country: United Kingdom
Ford Galaxy - Intercooler Replacement and Removal (115PS TDI)
« on: December 06, 2013, 09:50:46 PM »
« Last Rated on: November 20, 2015, 02:12:50 AM »
For some reason, the radiators on the Galaxy are all bolted in and then offered up as an assembly into the slam panel. The result is that you can't get to any of the bolts to remove a radiator and the official way to removal the intercooler is to drain the coolant, AC and PAS systems before removing the bumper, slam panel and lifting the radiator pack out of the car as an assembly.

This is a much simpler method of removing the intercooler on the PD115 Diesel Engine without all that and also similar to how most garages would remove the AC condenser/radiator.

The most common reason to remove the intercooler is that its leaking air or more likely oil. In theory there shouldn't be any oil in the intercooler pipework but in reality most diesel engines will have a small amount of oil in there as a result of blow-by gas from the crankcase being passed back into the system to comply with emission regulations. On the 115 the intercooler is mounted at the bottom of the radiator pack and is made of aluminium and plastic, where the two join is a rubber seal which has been known to leak. Since the intercooler is the lowest point in the system, oil gathers here and will drip out over time. The 130 and 150 use different intercoolers which don't seem to suffer this problem. In theory, if oil is leaking then so is air or boost making the turbo work that little bit harder.

Tools needed:
10mm Socket, Extension and Ratchet.
Mini UJ Joint
10/14/16mm Wood drill bits
T30 Torx bit
Adjustable pliers or Spring clip removal tool

This job is best tackled with the car on a ramp or axle stands as access is needed from below. Start by removing the under-shield (see here if you've never done this before)

Next remove the lower grill sections, they just pull forward right then left or, on facelift models, the small section then the bigger piece. Next is locate where the 4 bolts sit - due to the lack of space, this is the slam panel out of the car - purely for visual aid!

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Behind these flat spots are the heads of the intercooler securing bolts. There is about 3mm clearance between the back of the flat and the bolt head so use the wood bit to drill out the flat and create a hole - the lower left is the trickiest one to do but you should be able to do it with the smaller bit and work the size up. Be careful not to rub the oil cooler pipe or your paintwork!

To drill the lower right hole, undo the torx bolt holding the oil cooler pipe to the slam panel and move it out of the way, you can see here the upper hole has already been drilled out. Don't undo the bolts just yet!

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From below, release the intake and exit hoses for the intercooler:

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Undo the two T30 torx bolts that hold the coolant hose in place, the bracket will foul the intercooler when you try and move it else:

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Finally, from the front, remove the 4 bolts holding the intercooler in place. This is where the mini UJ will come in handy! You can then withdraw the intercooler from the engine side:

1803-4
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Old and new side-by-side:

1807-6

03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
06 VW EOS 2.0 T-FSI 210 Sport in Deep Black Pearl
With red leather interior with full Caractere bodykit, Remapped at 255bhp and sitting on 19's
14 VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI 177 R-Line in Deep Black Pearl
With black leather interior, panoramic sunroof and bi-xenon headlights.
08 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)

VCDS HEX/CAN - Scans/Coding done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)

 

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