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Author Topic: Ford Galaxy - Gearbox Drive Stub Axle and Half shaft (Inner Drive Shaft) (Mk2)  (Read 29415 times)

Rated 9 times
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Offline Mirez

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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
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Ford Galaxy - Gearbox Drive Stub Axle and Half shaft (Inner Drive Shaft) (Mk2)
« on: February 04, 2012, 05:25:17 PM »
« Last Rated on: June 17, 2017, 10:45:37 PM »
This seems to effect mainly Mk2 Ford Galaxy's around 2002 to 2005 (And VW Sharan / SEAT Alhambra) - whilst auto's and manuals have the same style design the parts differ slightly but it can effect either. There is some discussion as to why the joint fails but the general consensus is that the joint is assembled 'dry' from the factory and not sealed. This topic is a general post that covers the associated symptoms, repair technique and parts availability.



Early signs that the joints on its way out:
  • Clunk on take-up
  • Clunk when releasing the accelerator quickly in 4th or 5th
  • Clunk when changing from 1st to reverse
  • Sloppy feeling in the driveline
  • Difficulty changing gear
  • 'Chipping' of gears, especially 2nd and 3rd
  • Red dust on and around underside of gearbox

Signs the joints failed:
  • Complete loss of drive
  • Loud grumbling/grinding noise when a gear is engaged with the engine running



If you have any of the early symptoms then it would be very prudent to get the joint checked out. If the joint fails then its always during torquing - ie, when power is being applied to the joint (such as pulling away) and the result is a loud grumbling metallic sound and a complete loss of drive. Normally followed by a recovery charge and then a huge bill for dealer parts.

I've tried to put as much info as I can into this post for reference. I got quotes from VW, Seat and Ford, with Ford being surprisingly the cheapest of the three:

We start with OEM Parts and if you were to buy them from a Ford Dealer then the parts carry the FINIS code of:

1140358 - Shaft Assembly
1313097 - Shaft

The prices are however, still quite scary coming in at 145.27 and 184.82 with a grand total of 387.86 after VAT and before any discount you may get ;)
*The pricing was correct in 2010/11 but is likely to have increased since*. Interestingly my dealer new one of the codes off the top of her head and they had two Galaxy's in that week for the same issue! Below is the exploded view from the parts catalogue, there are two versions available and both bolt into the same stub (part 20 as shown) - the only real difference between the two versions is the carrier ie, how they are bolted to the car. The earlier version uses an aluminium carrier and the later unit is steel plate. It's debatable if there are any benefit's between the two systems.

80-0

If you rummage around the net and motor factors you'll find you can't get either of the assemblies as they are simply main dealer only. Fortunately I speak German and they seem to have better luck then us over there so I wondered around the German equivalent of this site reading the info they have - largely they agree however one member suggested a polish drive shaft company that made an alternate. Contacting them (and relief they speak English!) they do indeed do both parts, reworked to be more substantial. Reworked specialist parts are quite often more expensive then the original from a dealer so enquiring tentatively at the cost: 263 Euro or 216 all in including delivery I was quite surprised :)

My next issue was quality, the parts were cheaper but nobody on the German site seems to have bought from them and further reading of polish and Danish sites all came up with the same - few references and nobody who had bought! Looking at the pictures on their site:
http://motomax.eu/ww...aran_store.html
I spent a few days umm'ing and ahh'ing (as you do) before deciding that if I was redesigning the parts that's pretty much what I would do so took the bullet and decided to be the guinea pig! The new bits arrived in 6 days, and I'll compare them shortly.

Quote from: FordMPV.com
Update Aug 16:
I had a message today from our member RayM to say that Eurocarparts now offer this assembly > Link 159.99
Whilst I can't comment on the quality of this one compared to the Polish shaft, I think its likely to be to a similar standard.



 First though some photos of what I found under mine:

60-1
62-2

Note the covering of red dust all over the surrounding parts - to give you an idea, this extended back over the gearbox casing, gearbox mount and over the roll bar and xenon sensor. For those wondering that red dust is basically the metal from the joint!

During my research on the tolerances for the joint I was told by various people and dealers that I could expect anything from 2mm to 4mm of movement in this joint as 'normal' - not that convincing! With the car on axel stands and in 1st - this is the movement I had by rotating the drivers wheel:

Below is a short video of the joint before failure:


You can see its about 3mm so according to some of the dealers its 'normal' - the accompanying squeak isn't from me by the way, its also from the joint!

So disassembly: Well actually its quite easy. You need someone on the breaks whilst you turn and then undo the 6 spine bolts connecting the drivers driveshaft and half shaft together - you don't need to remove the driveshaft either: use some cable or string fed down from the top of the engine to support the weight (I tied mine to the underside of the bonnet on the catch - its not that heavy when its still half attached!). There are then two bolts to remove the bracket and bearing and the old shaft can then be removed from under (note: a sh*t load of crud will fall in your eye if you are stupid like me and directly under it at this point!). Finally remove the allen bolt from inside the gearbox stub and remove the final part so you can see the damage:

Firstly the stub from the gearbox:

64-3

And second, the splines on the shaft:

66-4
68-5
70-6

The last one shows it the clearest - look at the shaft end of the splines, that's not a moulding - its how those splines would have been / should still be! So the comparison photos:

72-7
74-8

The brass bit in pieces is the old compression fitting - ensure you have all the bits if yours falls apart as well!

There is a sealing ring that sits here that I replaced at the same time, you don't have to do this but if you've gone this far the extra few quid won't matter and it prevents debris entering and I guess grease leaving. The FINIS is 1209334 and costs 4.89 - you'll need to lever the old one out and then tap in the new one as its a tight fit.

76-9

Take the spring assembly off the old gearbox stub and transfer it to the new one before greasing and then refitting. This is a bit of a mission as you need to put a lot of inward pressure on the stub in order to tighten the alen bolt back up. I ended up removing the rubber gaiter (you can see it here) from the end:

78-10

This allowed me to use a bar against the block to apply the tension whilst an assistant (the missus who arrived at just the right time!) to engage the bolt. Finally the gaiter can go back on, grease can be put liberally into the joint and the shaft and bearing assembly refitted. Finally the new shaft can be bolted back to the driveshaft and job done:

58-11

The result is truly amazing, the car has always felt a little sloppy - I drive company cars a lot so I've always put it down to the difference between a 6 month and 7 year car however I can now say it easily feels the same as a modern car. Its also interesting to note that I found the same as others in that the gear change is noticeably improved, no chipping or tightness of the shift - However I can't explain that any more then they could!

If you do need to buy, you have to use the "contact" button at the top of their site http://motomax.eu/eng/index.html and send them an email as its not listed in the shop - mention this site (The FordMPV.com Forum - The free forum for questions and answers relating to the Ford Galaxy, S-Max and C-Max) and "Mirez", if we place enough orders there may be some discount in it for us ;)

Finally, yes I'm aware nobody wants to spend 200 however if your joint is iffy then I urge you to replace it! If you don't and the joint fails - you'll have the recovery cost, inconvienience, possible danger and then dealer prices and labour to contend with.

I'll review the joint in about a year to see how its fairing up.

« Last Edit: April 12, 2012, 01:06:38 PM by Mirez »
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
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