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Author Topic: Ford Galaxy - Replacing the Run-On pump brushes  (Read 13981 times)

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Offline SilverBeast

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  • Posts: 496
  • Thanked: 13
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '05 TDI (130) Ghia
  • Region: Yorkshire
Ford Galaxy - Replacing the Run-On pump brushes
« on: June 21, 2012, 06:20:18 PM »
« Last Rated on: January 02, 2017, 08:56:46 PM »
The Run-On pump is fitted to all MK2 Galaxy Diesels, MK1 Galaxy Diesels with auxiliary heating and the V6. It is also present on some 2.0 and 2.3 petrol engines. On the diesel model its primary function is to pump coolant down to the rear auxiliary heater and without it running the heater will shut down with over heat errors quickly. On the V6 its primary function is to cool the engine and avoid hot spots after driving (hence the run-on name) however this is also an important task on the TDI so a working pump is important. A secondary function is to continue to circulate coolant around the engine should the primary water pump fail.

So how do I know if its working or not? Well the best way is to simply listen for it, on all models the pump starts around 5 seconds after ignition is turned on so with the bonnet open get an assistant to turn the ignition on (but not start the car) - a whirring noise should be observed which stays until the ignition is turned back off. On the 115 diesel and V6 engines the pump run's on for around 5 minutes after the ignition is turned off whilst on the later 130 and 150 diesels it turns off immediately. Generally the brushes wear out between 60K miles and 80K miles although the number of ignition cycles and idle time have a big influence.

The pump is located at the back of the engine and access requires the bulkhead extender to be removed. Full instructions for this can be found here: Bulkhead Extension Removal

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Its held in place by two rubber mounts. Disconnect the wiring plug and the whole pump will slide out of the mounts allowing access to the in and out pipes. Release the tension on the clips and disconnect each pipe from the pump. A small amount of coolant will be lost here but because the pump is one of the highest points in the system this should be minimal. To prevent dirt entering the system cover the pipes with a suitable cap. Note: In this photo the top section of the intercooler pipework has been removed, removing this is optional but increases access.

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This is the pump out of the car. If you are replacing the pump instead then the Bosch part number is 392 020 073 and can be bought from a number of motor factors / Bosch centres for around 70. The VAG part number is 3D0 965 561 and costs around 120 from a VW dealer:

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For those replacing the brushes we now need to disassemble the top half of the pump. Insert a flat blade screwdriver (White arrow) and use it to lever the two retention tabs (Yellow arrows) away - take care not to excessively bend them as they need to go back later! Repeat this for the other side and then lift the top black part of the motor assembly away from the body.

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We now get our first look at the brushes in place. To remove them we need to lift out the retention springs (Yellow arrows) and then slide the old brushes out (Green arrows). Follow their braided cable back to the copper supply cable and cut the old brush off.

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A comparison of the old brushes against the new ones shows just how worn they are!

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We can now install the brushes into position. Note: Depending on where your new brushes have come it may be necessary to shape them to the profile of the spindle using a needle file and/or sandpaper. Whilst they are not uncommon, you need to ensure you get replacements of suitable size, the measurements should be: 5mm x 5mm x 10mm with an side cable entry. Rear entry brushes can be used but a cut may need to be put into the brush to allow smooth operation. A large number of model radio controlled car's and helicopters use this size brush so model shops can normally supply replacements at a suitable price.

Quote from: Mirez
For anyone else struggling to find the right part on-line without leaving the house! Try this seller -Ebay Link - I can confirm that whilst rear entry, they are the right size for a direct fit and work perfectly for this application. (No affiliation)

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Now solder the new brush's wire back to the copper supply wire and ensure its tucked back where it came from to prevent shorting with the pump case. We now need to reinstall the springs (Green arrows) and allow them to apply tension. This is the trickiest part as the tension will push the brush into the path of the spindle so you won't be able to refit the end. In this example a piece of cotton was used to hold both in place whilst the top was slid back into position, the cotton can then be pulled out allowing the brush to slide back against the spindle.

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Quote from: martinrichard
I had an interesting time replacing the brushes (with modified ones) in the run-on pump. I found using cotton to hold the springs back almost impossible with the springs closing the brushes before I could get the commutator body inserted.

A friend advised that:
1) I set the gap with a matchstick
2) soak the brushes in water
3) freeze it all
4) remove the matchstick
5) insert the commutator body into the gap between the frozen static brushes.

It worked a treat and might add a little bit more to help someone do the job.

With the top back in position the final stage is to bend the retention lugs back into position to hold it all in place. Note, they should clear the top and shouldn't need to be bent "up" and over - if they don't align correctly then the top should be removed again and the obstruction dealt with

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