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Author Topic: Ford Galaxy - Alternator Replacement / Renewal (TDI)  (Read 20818 times)

Rated 4 times
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Offline Mirez

  • Pondering the next mod...
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  • Posts: 3717
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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: 03 115PS Ghia
  • First Name: Mark
  • Region: South West
  • Country: United Kingdom
Ford Galaxy - Alternator Replacement / Renewal (TDI)
« on: February 04, 2012, 05:00:28 PM »
« Last Rated on: January 23, 2015, 02:28:38 PM »
Replacing the alternator on the Mk2 is a simple job as the layout of the engine means the alternator is easily accessible from above. The whole job can be completed by a competent DIY'er in about an hour.

Tool requirements are minimal:
  • 5mm Allen Key
  • Pliers
  • 17mm Spanner
  • Nail
  • Rathet and 10mm and 13mm Sockets
  • Large flatblade or Prybar

First things first, you need to disconnect a battery terminal (10mm socket) and then gain access to the alternator. The engine top cover is simply held by rubber push mounts so simply pull it up and out of the engine bay (Green Arrows). Next undo the MAF wiring connector (Red Arrow) and use the pliers to slide back the hose spring clip (White Arrow). Finally remove the 5mm Allen bolt (Blue Arrow) and withdraw the entire airbox assembly from the car.

With the airbox and cover removed you can see the alternator and tensioner much clearer:

The next step is to remove the auxiliary belt. Attach the the 17mm spanner to the top of the tensioner and then take the tension by rotating it (Yellow Arrow), keep rotating the tensioner until it comes to a natural stop and at that point use the nail to lock it in place (Blue Arrow) - remember there is a lot of power in the tensioner so the nail needs to strong and be properly slid into the locking hole. Alternatively VW do a "Special Tool" to hold the tensioner in place if you don't have a nail knocking about :)

With the tensioner disengaged you can now remove the aux belt, or simply slide it off the alternator. Once that's done take the tension back up using the spanner and then remove the nail to release the tensioner - allow it to slide back until it stops. Next undo the three 13mm bolts (Red Arrows - one is obscured by the foam pad) and remove the tensioner.

NOTE the photo show's the tensioner still locked "open" to simplify this writeup, It MUST be released back prior to removing the retaining bolts. Its possible to complete the job leaving the tensioner attached to the engine but for the sake of three more bolts it makes access much easier and removes the possibility of dislodging the tool/nail and having the tensioner rapidly close.

On the other side of the alternator, disconnect the multiplug (Red Arrow), remove the rubber bung and then undo the charge cable retaining bolt (Green Arrow)

Working back on the other side remove the two bolts that hold then alternator in place (Red Arrows) -

The alternator is fixed in place with bushing's so with the two bolts removed its still stiff and held - use a large prybar to jimmy the alternator out of the housing and remove it from the vehicle.

With the alternator out of the vehicle you can now see the A/C compressor. When refitting the alternator first use a wire brush to clean up the end of the charge cable before coating it with some copper grease. The bushings will make refitting slightly tricky so it's beneficial to grease the casing and mount points first before attempting.

« Last Edit: March 03, 2012, 09:53:24 AM by Mirez »
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
08 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)

VCDS HEX/CAN - Scans/Coding done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)



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