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Author Topic: Ford Galaxy - Oil and Filter Change (Self Servicing) (TDI)  (Read 38244 times)

Online Mirez

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Ford Galaxy - Oil and Filter Change (Self Servicing) (TDI)
« on: June 06, 2012, 06:58:25 pm »
This guide covers how to do a basic oil and filter change on the TDI (90/115ps versions- engine codes ANU/AUY respectively)*. The principle is the same for the 2.3 and V6 however the oil and filter's are different.

*-Please note that although the basic procedure is the same, the 130/150ps (engine codes ASZ/BTB respectively) TDI's use a different oil filter to the 90/115ps TDI's and have a different style of filter cap, please see the additional notes and images relating to this at the bottom of the article.

A note on Diesel oil first: The PD (Mk2 TDI) engine uses 5W/40 grade oil which MUST meet the minimum Spec. of "505.01", premature camshaft lobe wear will result if the oil isn't up to this spec!! The TDI uses 4.5 Litres of oil when its changed along with the oil filter.

The tools required are:

  • Wrench
  • 19mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket & Long Extension
  • Catch Tank / Washing up bowl

The job is best tackled with the vehicle up on a set of ramps, however its possible to do it on a flat piece of ground without raising the vehicle.
As with all lubricant changes, ensure the filler cap can be removed - the last thing you want to do it drain a lubricant only to find you can't refill it! Whilst unlikely for the oil cap its still better to check first.
The engine should be warm - Warm oil flows much better then cold oil so will run out quicker and take more deposits with it so take the car for a drive up to temperature first.

The first thing to do is remove the engine under tray, all models came with one so if your car no longer has it then its either been robbed or discarded by a lazy mechanic (aim to replace it as it not only aids aerodynamics and noise but protects the engine from road spray). The tray covers the entire underside of the engine bay and is held in place with 2 nuts and 4 bolts (all 10mm). The nuts secure the back of the tray and the bolts secure the sides, the front is lipped into the bottom of the slam panel. Looking up, on each side you should see the bolts, remove these and then the two nuts - the tray is quite heavy but should drop down at the back and then slide backwards from the front, allowing it to be removed from under the car.

Looking UP at the SIDE of the engine under-shield, these are the O/S two bolts:


Looking BACK towards the FRONT of the car, this is the rear roll restrictor and two nuts:


With the tray off, next locate the Sump plug, this is a 19mm Bolt and has a compression washer attached to help seal - when doing this job its highly recommended that this bolt and washer be replaced although in practice it can normally last a few times. The plug is shown here:


And to clarify its location on the back of the sump: (Looking from the passenger wheel towards the drivers wheel)


Once removed the old oil is free to run out so have the catch tank handy as it comes out quickly! Remember that because the engine is warm, the oil is also warm! If the vehicle was taken up to full operating temperature then the oil could be as hot as 120*c so take care and wear protection!


Leave the plug out and catch tray under whilst the oil fully drains and move on to locating the oil filter housing. This requires the engine over shield to be removed (as seen in many of the other how-to's) and this simply pulls up and out.  The oil filter is a less traditional paper element filter in a non removable aluminium container - it lives just to the right of the oil dipstick:


The lid is simply screwed on but occasionally becomes excessively hard to remove, a conventional filter strap can be used in this case but normally the lid should just unscrew by hand. Pull the old filter up. It should be semi-submerged in oil (if not then the non return valve is faulty or the small sealing ring is missing). Pulling the filter out breaks the seal and allows the old oil to escape out the bottom, into the sump and out into the catch tray.


Inspect the oil filter cover, your new filter should have come with two new rubber seals - remove and replace the ones on the cover:


The smaller one sits in the lip as shown:


The new filter can now be installed into the housing. Note: Most, if not all, filters have a "top" and must be inserted the correct way around! Look for the marking on the filter, push down lightly on the filter to ensure its fitted - We'll come back to refit the lid in just a second...



Next replace the sump plug and ensure its done up tightly whilst remembering the sump is aluminium so over-tightening will damage it - do it fully up by hand and then just a nip more with a wrench.

Note: When you first start a car after changing the oil filter the oil pump has to fill the housing before any oil makes it up to the engine. This is the reason the oil warning light stays on briefly after a change. This isn't that great for the engine but is considered normal practice and what nearly all garages will allow to happen. However since we care a little more about our car then most places, it's a good idea to pour some fresh oil into the oil filter housing. This is a little tricky as it needs to go in the gap between the filter and the external housing - not in the middle hole (Yellow arrow on the photo above, not where the red one is!) You should see the level rise up on the outside, stop when its near the top of the casing. The filter lid can now be replaced, remember not to over-tighten this, hand tight is more then sufficient.

Finally the oil can be replaced, a funnel can greatly ease this process!


As you fill keep checking for when the dip stick has reached minimum, when its just above start the engine. Note: Watch the oil warning light at this point, if you filled the filter housing as suggested above it should go off virtually instantly, or if not should remain on when the engine fires for no longer then about 2 seconds as the oil fills the filter and the correct pressure is achieved.  The light must have gone out within 10 seconds as longer times indicate poor oil pickup which may be either the result of a clogged strainer (located in the sump) or a damaged oil pump which must be investigated immediately. Once the light has gone out wait a few more seconds and then stop the engine. With the correct amount of oil now in the filter housing, the oil level in the sump will have dropped, wait a few minutes before taking another reading and topping up to the maximum or just a little below. Do not overfill!

If you have reused the sump plug then it's a good idea to let the car fully warm up before replacing the under shield just to ensure the sump plugs not leaking.

Additional notes relating to 130/150ps TDI's:

The 130/150ps TDI's with engine codes ASZ/BTB have a slightly different oil filter arrangement to that outlined above, the filter is still in exactly the same place but instead of having a 12 sided cap, the cap is actually headed to accept a 32mm socket as can be seen in the below image (arrowed orange), the cap also has it's recommended tightening torque moulded onto it - 25nm:


A different oil filter is also used, Ford part no. 1250679 / VW part no. 045 115 466A, there will also be numerous pattern equivalents, personally I try to stick with filters from recognised brands and O.E suppliers such as Mann, Purflux, Mahle etc. The genuine 'Ford' filter I purchased (which amusingly actually has the VW / Audi logos printed on the filter itself instead of a Ford logo :D ) was made by Purflux and also carries their own reference for the filter of L267, Purflux filters with this part number can be purchased from the likes of GSF, Euro car parts etc. probably cheaper than a genuine filter from the dealers.

As can be seen in the below images, this type of filter is shorter than the filter fitted to the lower powered 90/115ps TDI's above, and importantly- the 'stub' which protrudes out of one end of the filter is actually part of the filter itself instead of being part of the cap. What this means is that instead of pulling just the paper filter element off and over the 'spindle' which is part of the cap as visible in the 8th image down of this article, you simply pull the whole filter/ stub assembly off of the cap (it clips into the cap with a set of plastic lugs). When installing the filter, the 'stub' points downwards into the filter housing, away from the filter cover.

^The oil filter and sealing O-ring as supplied by Ford under part no. 1250679*. And also the filter cover- note the absence of the spindle protruding from it.

(*- The filter cover is NOT supplied with the oil filter!)

^Side on view of the filter showing the 'stub' which is part of the filter and not part of the filter cover as it is on the 90/115ps TDI's. Note also the sealing O-ring at the end of the stub (arrowed yellow)- the filter is usually supplied with this installed.

^View of the bottom of the filter showing the circular set of lugs (arrowed blue) which clip into the filter cover. Note also the spring in the centre of the filter cover- I stand to be corrected here but I believe this is to do with the oil bypass which prevents lubrication starvation to the engine should the filter become so blocked that the flow rate through it is reduced!

« Last Edit: April 20, 2017, 08:11:04 pm by Mirez »
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
08 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)

LAUNCH X431 Pad PRO - Scanning & Coding for all makes and models done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)


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