FordMPV Forum

Large MPVs -- Ford Galaxy / VW Sharan / SEAT Alhambra: => Ford Galaxy / VW Sharan / SEAT Alhambra => Topic started by: Solentview on June 07, 2020, 01:15:04 PM

Post by: Solentview on June 07, 2020, 01:15:04 PM
Hello out there - I am hoping that somebody can assist with identifying the correct bolts which are used to fasten the rubber bushes in the front control arms (left and right) of the Sharan/Alhambra, 09 model with BRT engine. All the exploded parts diagrams I have manged to study only show the M14 bolt for the front bush - VAG N90593803 M14x1.5x90 which seems to tally with the 14mm bore of that bush.
The bolt for the rear bush does not appear to be shown anywhere, except for an old Ford Galaxy diagram which suggests that the same M14 bolt is used. But - the rear bush VAG 7M0407181A has a bore of 18mm. So is N90593803 used at the rear, and does M14 really fit through an 18mm bore, or is it a different bolt?

I am asking the question in case the bolt is damaged when the bushes are changed. Hope somebody can help.
Post by: insanitybeard on June 08, 2020, 01:35:54 AM
Does the below help you at all? Parts diagram for an '09 Sharan which shows both front and rear lower arm to subframe mounting bolts (number 2 on the diagram) as being M14, and both the same part number you quoted in your post: (

I can't help regarding the disparity between the bore size of the rear bush and the bolt used to secure it, the only way to be sure is to get the old arm out and take a look. It wouldn't seem right that the bolt would be slack in the bore of the bush, to do its job correctly the arm needs to be clamped firm. Having said that, the same parts diagram I linked above shows even the bolts fixing the subframe to the vehicle chassis as only being M14- that being so, it would seem equally odd that the rear arm mounting bolt only would need to exceed this size.
Post by: Solentview on June 08, 2020, 07:21:21 PM
Very many thanks for your reply above and the 7zap diagram, which tells the same story as the old Galaxy diagram that I managed to find. You are right, the only way to find out is to take the bolts out, so I am hoping that there is not too much corrosion in the threads and the bore of the front bush. To that end I have started dosing the four bolts with releasing fluid, in the hope that they can be extracted without too much aggravation. 
Thanks again - Solentview
Post by: Mirez on June 09, 2020, 11:34:33 AM
There is an M18 bolt listed for the Sharan under suspension components, N90498002 but nothing else about it or where it fits.
Post by: Solentview on June 11, 2020, 02:21:02 PM
Thanks Mirez for your note about the M18 bolt. I have just finished making up the extraction tools for removing the bushes, when eventually the control arms are removed, and I am now proceeding cautiously to find ways of releasing the bolts without destroying them or the retaining nuts. As far as I can make out, the rear (unknown) bolts actually protrude out through the upper surface of the subframe, so we are going up on ramps next to see whether the diameter can be measured and to dose with more Wurth Rost Off. The front M14 bolts appear to be entirely boxed in, but there is a tiny hole in the side of the subframe (used for tooling and assembly, presumably) and a short plastic extension on the Wurth aerosol nozzle just fits through to the vicinity of the caged nut.

If anybody has any tips on how to remove these bolts, easily without damage, they would be gratefully received.

I will post more if, as, and when I make forward progress.
Post by: johnnyroper on June 11, 2020, 04:16:53 PM
My old 02 model the bolts both sides came out no issue at all, whether I was lucky or they are not prone to rusting in I don’t know. If I recall I impact gunned the one and the other I used a spanner or ratchet due to access.
Post by: insanitybeard on June 12, 2020, 01:12:50 PM
You could pre-emptively spray the accessible areas of thread with penetrating oil, let it soak for a while and then re-apply before trying to crack the bolts off just a tad. I've never had the arms out of mine to speak from experience on what state the bolts come out in but I did recently have the wheel knuckle to front damper clamp bolt shear off on me which was a nightmare as the strut and wheel knuckle can't be separated until the bolt is removed.
Post by: Solentview on July 19, 2020, 05:59:30 PM
Very many thanks to everyone who has chipped in on this topic. I have now had both control arms out - L&R - and changed front and rear rubber bushes. I started off by spraying with copious amounts of releasing fluid and then showed all four bolts my 3/4" drive tommy bar, and they all came out cleanly without argument. I had feared the worst, as the vehicle has been parked in the open about 150m from the high water mark on the south coast, for the last nine years and must have visited numerous salt water puddles, but as it turned out only the front bolts had very faint water marks on the portion that protrudes through the caged nut inside the subframe. Otherwise all threads were/are clean as the whistle.

I have answered my own question about the rear (M14) bolts fitting through the 18mm bore of the rubber bush, partly at least. When I came to re-assemble, I realised that the rear bush can only be located by introducing it into the front of its recess in the subframe, and then sliding it back between the embossed beads or ribs on either side of the bolt hole, which I had not previously noticed. So the steel core of the rear rubber bush is firmly located, at least for side to side movement, between the embossed beads, but it can still move fore and aft, if the pothole is deep enough, as both of mine had done, as witnessed by thread marks ground into the internal bore of the bushes. 

The fore and aft movement, over time, must then destroy the rear rubber bushes. When I removed the nearside control arm, the steel core of the rear bush literally fell out into my hand. And that may explain the really puzzling tyre wear seen last year, when the vehicle passed the MOT test with >5mm depth across the centre of the treads, but inner and outer shoulders of both tyres absolutely and completely bald, and with the inevitable advisories.

The only minor technical hitch that I encountered was sizing the socket head bolts holding the lower swivel joint onto the hub, as I had decided to remove the control arms without disturbing the taper joints. Apparently, some models have 8mm hex socket head bolts, the OEM diagrams for the 2009 models may tell you that the bolts are M10 multi-point spline sockets, but mine are M12 multi-point, so there was a brief pause in the proceedings while I scrabbled around for the correct splined bit.

Many thanks again to all who gave encouragement - Solentview

Post by: Solentview on May 09, 2021, 07:17:45 PM
Apologies if this is rather a late post, but I managed to get a photo of the Alhambra N/S wishbone rear bush core with thread witness marks - caused by fore and aft movement of the 18mm ID core supposedly clamped by a 14mm bolt. if anyone else experiences odd front tyre wear, damaged rear wishbone bushes are a good place to start looking.