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Author Topic: Brake and temp fault  (Read 1027 times)

Offline Mark Vardy

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  • Posts: 74
  • Thanked: 0
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: 04 TDI 130 GHIA
  • First Name: Mark
  • Region: East Midlands
  • Country: United Kingdom
Brake and temp fault
« on: March 28, 2017, 07:57:46 AM »
Hi,I repaired the rear passenger side door loom,the window wire was cut in two,before this the lights on my steering wheel flick on and off,the left indicator light on the dash sometimes flicks as in fades rather than blinks and I loose the left side of the red readout i.e. Fuel consumption,I looked at my loom and it's in a very bad state,we then on Friday got a brake pad warning light come on but has not been on since and my wife has just rang to say a coolant light has come on and a stop now message but the engine temp gauge is at 90 as normal,is this all through the door loom or does the wire come from another source.

Offline Mark Vardy

  • *
  • Posts: 74
  • Thanked: 0
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: 04 TDI 130 GHIA
  • First Name: Mark
  • Region: East Midlands
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Brake and temp fault
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2017, 08:12:08 AM »
I'm asking if all the faults might be due to the very damaged drivers door loom or if the brake and temp are linked to the dash direct from the source?

Offline Chrispb

  • Mindsaysyesbodysaysnono
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  • Posts: 2982
  • Thanked: 91
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2 Auto
  • Spec: 52reg TDI 115 Ghia
  • First Name: Chris
  • Region: South East
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Brake and temp fault
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2017, 09:09:17 AM »
Firstly can you update your vehicle details in your profile so we don't have to search which vehicle you have.

Has your battery fuse box and wiring been repaired?

The flickering steering wheel lights is most likely clock spring as already mentioned previously.

although door wiring does cause a lot of issues I think you have a few other things to deal with.

Have you physically checked brake pads for wear?

Have you checked coolant level/signs of leaks?

When you say you lose the left side of the display do you mean you just cant see it clearly in daylight but can at night?
2009 Kia Sedona GS In Black 2.9CRDI 183PS. 5 Speed Manual WAV.
2003 MK2 Galaxy Ghia In Solid Black 1.9 TDI 115PS. 5 Speed Automatic.

Upgraded Eberspächer booster heater  to independent heating with 7 day timer.

With VCDS lite (full version) need a code clearing or want to scan for faults in the north kent area, PM me.
All for a pint of Strongbow.

The FordMPV.com Forum - The free forum for questions and answers relating to the Ford Galaxy, S-Max and C-Max

Offline Mark Vardy

  • *
  • Posts: 74
  • Thanked: 0
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: 04 TDI 130 GHIA
  • First Name: Mark
  • Region: East Midlands
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Brake and temp fault
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2017, 09:29:43 PM »
Sorry for the less than informative first post I was in a bit of a flap as the wife was out in the sticks,

Iv updated them,but it's on my O4 TDI 130 GHIA,

The battery fuse box has been done.

Iv had the brakes looked at and have lots  of life on them as they are fairly new.

It turns out I have a stone stuck in my rad fins and has a small leak,i couldnt see anything on the road in the mornings as it was going in the undertray,Iv orded a new rad which arrived today.

Wife rang about 2 hours ago to say the car has stopped,RAC man came out and  my altanater has packed up 🙄


Offline insanitybeard

  • Greetings from Mr Chick!
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  • Posts: 2398
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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '54 130ps TDI Ghia
  • First Name: Paul
  • Region: South West
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Brake and temp fault
« Reply #4 on: April 04, 2017, 11:36:13 AM »
Have you fitted the radiator yet? If not, I replaced mine a few years ago but be warned, there isn't much space! The 130/150ps TDI's have a slightly different setup to the 90/115ps versions- the latter have a smaller intercooler mounted low down behind the bumper whereas the former have a larger intercooler which bolts together forming an assembly with the A/C condenser, radiator and fan cowl. In this setup, the intercooler is the 'central' component that is physically fitted into the front panel by means of rubber bushes/ locating pins and all of the other components bolt to the intercooler.

To remove the radiator on the 130/150ps versions*, obviously it needs to be drained of coolant first- no drain plug on these so it's a hose off job. You can then unbolt the fan cowl from the radiator (4x 10mm hex headed self tapping bolts IIRC) and move the cowl back slightly to give a little space, though not much as it hits the oil cooler/ filter housing. Then the radiator can be unbolted from the intercooler (again, 4x 10mm hex headed self tapping bolts) and lowered/ wangled out with difficulty!

(*-the easiest way to remove the radiator would be to take the whole front panel off but this would involve removing the front bumper & crash beam and degassing the air conditioning system!)
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Offline Mark Vardy

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  • Posts: 74
  • Thanked: 0
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: 04 TDI 130 GHIA
  • First Name: Mark
  • Region: East Midlands
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Brake and temp fault
« Reply #5 on: April 04, 2017, 04:32:52 PM »
Hi insanitybeard,thanks for the detailed write up and info,my friend works in a garage so he will be helping me out,or should I say I'll be trying to help him out but I will let him know what to look out for.

 

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