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Author Topic: Brake bleeding sequence  (Read 769 times)

Offline tacochewy

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Brake bleeding sequence
« on: September 05, 2020, 12:13:08 pm »
Hi
Does anyone know the sequence for bleeding brakes in my 2005 VW Sharan tdi sport

I will be using a gunson pressure bleeder to replace brake fluid, also is the anything special I should be doing concerning the ABS module, I assume use low pressure to push fluid through.

thanks

Offline SirDavidAlhambra

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2020, 12:24:14 pm »
Not sure, personally

 [NE1]
I drive a Seat Alhambra 1.9Tdi which has 115bhp and an automatic gearbox.

I am happy to help you with all your questions. I am not a qualified mechanic but seem to be better at fixing my car than even the most experienced garages.

I have lots of friends here and very much enjoy talking with you all.

Always remember, a motor car is a serious tool and should be treated with respect. Put your safety first, always.

Offline johnnyroper

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2020, 03:04:49 pm »
When I did mine I just started furthest away from master first and didn’t do anything special. Only thing I did was suck as much old fluid out of reservoir as possible using a hand oil suction pump to cut down bleeding time.

It’s an awkward place to get to res though, I concoted a funnel and hose assembly to get down to it to top fluid up

Don’t forget to bleed clutch aswell as that has equally as old and dirty fluid in the line

Offline SirDavidAlhambra

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2020, 03:56:34 pm »
How often should I change my brake fluid please and is it ok to do it by just sucking out the stuff in the reservoir and filling it up again, thank you
I drive a Seat Alhambra 1.9Tdi which has 115bhp and an automatic gearbox.

I am happy to help you with all your questions. I am not a qualified mechanic but seem to be better at fixing my car than even the most experienced garages.

I have lots of friends here and very much enjoy talking with you all.

Always remember, a motor car is a serious tool and should be treated with respect. Put your safety first, always.

Offline johnnyroper

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2020, 04:12:08 pm »
Every 2 years and no as you are only replacing some of the fluid in res as not all will come out and you have old fluid left in lines and slave cylinders. You still need to crack all nipples off and bleed properly even if replacing what’s in reservoir

Offline brianh

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2020, 04:23:54 pm »
Ford TIS doesn't specify anything particually for bleeding it, only note for vehicles with ABS is to disconnect the battery ground cable. I'd suspect as long as you aren't letting all the fluid out (if its just a routine change rather than replacing the abs module for example) then you should be ok.

Agree with the comment about access to the reservoir though, easier if you take the scuttle panel out but still difficult to access. Can be worth having a half full bottle to pour from as you can lay it down a lot flatter than a full one.

Do the clutch as the last one, the take off for it is higher than the rest of the system.

There may be an option to bleed the abs in VCDS somewhere - not sure on that point.

Offline SirDavidAlhambra

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2020, 05:52:04 pm »
My brake fluid hasn’t been changed for 3 years!! I am going to get it done asap
I drive a Seat Alhambra 1.9Tdi which has 115bhp and an automatic gearbox.

I am happy to help you with all your questions. I am not a qualified mechanic but seem to be better at fixing my car than even the most experienced garages.

I have lots of friends here and very much enjoy talking with you all.

Always remember, a motor car is a serious tool and should be treated with respect. Put your safety first, always.

Offline tacochewy

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2020, 06:49:05 pm »
Thanks for all your advice on this.

I have just completed the job, all seemed to go ok.

I managed to avoid having to remove scuttle panel but I did remove airbox lid. I used a massive 100mm syringe with tube attached to suck some old fluid out and then attached gunson pressure bleeder to lid of reservoir.

 Used a low pressure on the bleeder, starting with back right, then back left, then front right and front left, finally clutch.
It was last done 3 years ago and the stuff that came out was beginning to get dirty and green, so worth doing.

Chris

Offline SirDavidAlhambra

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2020, 08:55:41 pm »
What causes it to go green, was it mould etc
I drive a Seat Alhambra 1.9Tdi which has 115bhp and an automatic gearbox.

I am happy to help you with all your questions. I am not a qualified mechanic but seem to be better at fixing my car than even the most experienced garages.

I have lots of friends here and very much enjoy talking with you all.

Always remember, a motor car is a serious tool and should be treated with respect. Put your safety first, always.

Offline Silverback

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2020, 09:38:25 pm »
Usually you should do furthest from master cylinder first when bleeding, so r/n/s, r/o/s , f/n/s and f/o/s.
The scuttle undertray is quite easy to remove just three m6 bolts and a bit of muscle, getting it back in is a bit trickier . but removing it makes access to the resevoir much easier especially if you remove the air box.
The scuttle undertray is the fibre material bit, you hav eto pull it out airbox end first then get it over the expansion tank.
I use a sealey pressure bleeder, just pump it up to pressure (20psi) after filling with some DOT4, especially useful if your wife of 36 years will no longer come out and pres the pedal up and down.......

Offline tacochewy

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #10 on: September 07, 2020, 11:02:10 pm »
What causes it to go green, was it mould etc
I'm not sure why it takes on a green tinge. I've seen this before when changing brake fluid and always assumed that the previous fluid began life that colour. But on this occasion I know that the fluid from the previous change was originally straw colour, so I assume the green comes with age, I don't think it's mould.

Offline johnnyroper

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #11 on: September 07, 2020, 11:39:30 pm »
Moisture in the fluid and quite possibly from copper brake lines if they have been replaced anywhere on car in the last.

Offline Paul Collins

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #12 on: October 11, 2020, 04:19:01 pm »
Hi,

I have changed a brake pipe on front near side. After using the bleeding sequence, I can't get any fluid coming out of the new pipe. Any ideas?

All other 3 wheels are bleeding correctly.

Thanks in advance for any help

Offline brianh

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #13 on: October 11, 2020, 07:57:58 pm »
Where you say pipe, do you mean the bleed nipple? The covers frequently drop off with age and allow the nipple to fill with mud. It can be worth removing the nipple completely and either check its clear or replace it if that looks to be the issue. If you have a clamp on the flexible pipe you shouldn't lose much out of it.

Its also possible you have a blockage somewhere in the pipe you have replaced - most likely on the entry to the caliper from the old pipe. Its really a case of keep tracing it back until you find you have fluid pressure, then you know where the blockage is hopefully.

Offline Paul Collins

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #14 on: October 11, 2020, 09:25:06 pm »
Hi thanks for the reply
I replaced the brake pipe from the servo manifold back to the nearside front wheel .

Offline brianh

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #15 on: October 11, 2020, 09:31:09 pm »
Can't see you can do much else besides try slackening each joint to see how far the fluid is getting to. Would think the master cylinder is ok given the others work, so it sounds like you have some sort of blockage there, or something not right with the route you've connected up. Does it go through the abs modulator unit on this, or does yours not have that (its been a while since I looked under mine to see what route the pipes take so trying to go from memory here)

Offline Paul Collins

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #16 on: October 11, 2020, 10:24:45 pm »
Hi the car has a abs modulater unit on it

Offline Paul Collins

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #17 on: October 11, 2020, 10:31:42 pm »
All the other wheels bleed fine it's just the nearside front wheel.
Am I missing something odvious.

Offline brianh

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #18 on: October 11, 2020, 10:40:40 pm »
Have you disconnected more than a single pipe from the ABS modulator? I just wonder if its possible you have got the connections reversed there? I can't think of much else you could have done that would prevent any fluid coming through like that. Maybe someone else will have an idea there?

Offline johnnyroper

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #19 on: October 11, 2020, 11:57:12 pm »
Take pipe connections back out and make sure the hole hasn’t been closed up when tightening union up,if that looks ok leave pipe slack at abs block and pump pedal see if fluid comes out. If it does then issue in new pipe. If it doesn’t check for debris in the outlet on abs block.

Offline Paul Collins

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #20 on: October 12, 2020, 04:41:35 am »
Thanks I'll give it a whirl

Offline Paul Collins

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #21 on: October 15, 2020, 06:29:24 pm »
Hi sorry its taken me so long to get back but this is the first chance i have had to look at the car.
I have checked the abs pump fuse and the abs valve fuse both good , I have replaced the brake pipe with a new one also bought a self bleeding kit to pressurize the system
but still no fluid to that wheel .
I am wondering if the modulator is a valve at and it is closed therefore not allowing the fluid to the cylinder ?

Offline johnnyroper

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Re: Brake bleeding sequence
« Reply #22 on: October 15, 2020, 08:30:04 pm »
So long as master is putting fluid in to the abs block then you have pretty much got it narrowed down to the abs valve block in my opinion.  Funnily enough I have known a vauxhall corsa doing similar just recently but on 2 wheels. Turned out something inside had failed causing a blockage.I believe ECU testing sorted it out for fraction of replacement cost.

 

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