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Author Topic: bypassing heater temperature sensor  (Read 6546 times)

Offline dark_angel_tgv

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  • Model: Sharan Mk2
  • Spec: 2005,1.9 TDI,96 KW
  • Region: Non UK
bypassing heater temperature sensor
« on: September 27, 2015, 12:09:54 PM »
Hello!
I have a 2005 VW Sharan,1.9 tdi,ASZ.
I want to bypass the temperature sensor for the auxiliary heater( my heater is a D5Z-F unit).
I have bought electrical cable and a normal switch with no light and with on off posittions.
Can someone please help me with connecting the switch to the temperature sensor cables?i will be removing the sensor completly.
From what I know,there are 2 whires that go to the sensor.does anyone knows witch is the + and witch is the -? Does it matter when connecting the switch whitch is + and -? How can I tell whitch is witch?

And another qestion,releated th the heater: the booster fan does not work as it should,i thing it needs cleaning or replacing( it makes strange noises,and does not have speed ). Does the fan from the older units can be put in my D5Z-F?anyone have a part code?
Thank you and please excuse my grammar!

Offline insanitybeard

  • Greetings from Mr Chick!
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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '54 130ps TDI Ghia
  • First Name: Paul
  • Region: South West
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2015, 09:40:00 PM »
If it's a simple on off switch you're installing it won't matter which way round the switch is connected as you're simply using it to complete and break a circuit, as long as the switch has markings to denote on and off positions then you should be fine.
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Offline SilverBeast

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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '05 TDI (130) Ghia
  • Region: Yorkshire
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2015, 09:47:24 PM »
If your just using a switch to bridge out the temperature sensor then it won't matter which wire you connect to which side of the switch.  If you want to know which is which turn on the ignition with then temperature sensor disconnected and measure the voltage between each pin/wire and ground with a voltmeter.

The fan is integral to the Booster Heater. Here is a picture of the fan. The black dome is the fan blades and you can see the motor underneath.  This is a D5Z-F.
3950-0

I don't know if the older motors/blades will fit and don't believe you can buy just the fan/motor just the whole booster heater assembly.

Offline dark_angel_tgv

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  • Posts: 21
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  • Model: Sharan Mk2
  • Spec: 2005,1.9 TDI,96 KW
  • Region: Non UK
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2015, 12:56:06 PM »
Thank you for your responses!i will have to buy some thing to make the on off switch because I changed my mind on how to install it,but once I bought them and start assembly,I hope to make a tutorial and I will post it here.
As for the booster,can you please give me the notations marked on the motor,please? i will try to search the motor if I can't fix it'cause buying the whole thing is expensive as hell,even 2 hand,

Offline insanitybeard

  • Greetings from Mr Chick!
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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
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Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2015, 01:11:17 PM »
VW certainly sold it (number 19) as a separate part, and I expect it's the same as Eberspacher use on several of their other heater models, though I don't have their part number for it, and of course, Eberspacher never officially supported the D5Z-F model heater as it's an 'automotive fitment'.
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Offline dark_angel_tgv

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  • Posts: 21
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  • Model: Sharan Mk2
  • Spec: 2005,1.9 TDI,96 KW
  • Region: Non UK
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2015, 07:45:39 PM »
Thank you for your answer!
I've decided to not start another tread,but write the followings qestions here,because they are much or less all related to eachother(the auxiliary heating sistem),and hope you guys can help me once again.So:

1-I want to remove the heater from the car to try to get it fixed,but I want to be able to drive the car,tho.I will block the antifreeze hoses with clamps,but I want the front hose,that enters the heater to connect it to the aluminium pipe from the rear of the car.so that the rear rubber antifreeze hose is removed with the heater(dont like them hanging conected together front and rear with 3/4 couper tube).
is the front rubber hose long enought to conect it to the rear aluminium pipe? Hope you guys understand what I mean to say...
As I said,I will be blocking the front hose with a clamp.do you guys know how much antifreeze will drain from the rear of the car when I will remove the rubber hose to attach the hose from the front?
I'm asking because I will have to find a large enought bottle or something to catch it  because I will reuse it.is a 5 liter bottle enought for the rear antifreeze sistem?(hose that exit the heater).

2- how can I test the dosing pump if it provides fuel to the heater,considering that I will remove the heater because it is not working(the fan is not turning normally).
I tried to run the output test in vcds(it worked with the engine not started,but the key to on(dashboard lighting)) but I didnt hear any sound from the dosing pump.
What do you think,if I remove the hose from the heater and do another output test to it,will it provide fuel?
How exactly can I test the dosing pump if it is working or not?
Please consider that here the temperature is a little bit over 19 degrees,so the heater will not start if you want to say to start it after repairing to se if the dosing pump works.(I didnt finished the switches for it to start it at any temperature,because I work and I am home from job kinda late.
Again,sorry for grammar,my message might not be verry coherent and inteligible,but I am sure you get the ideea of what I am asking.thank you!
« Last Edit: September 28, 2015, 07:49:27 PM by dark_angel_tgv »

Offline Chrispb

  • Mindsaysyesbodysaysnono
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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2 Auto
  • Spec: 52reg TDI 115 Ghia
  • First Name: Chris
  • Region: South East
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #6 on: September 28, 2015, 10:37:02 PM »
If you clamp both hoses then join with copper pipe and jubilee clips you will lose minimal coolant, you can then tie up the pipes to prevent hanging.

To test the dosing pump just flash 12 volts to the pump, it's a solenoid pump and requires this on/off action to work it.
2009 Kia Sedona GS In Black 2.9CRDI 183PS. 5 Speed Manual WAV.
2003 MK2 Galaxy Ghia In Solid Black 1.9 TDI 115PS. 5 Speed Automatic.

Upgraded Eberspächer booster heater  to independent heating with 7 day timer.

With VCDS lite (full version) need a code clearing or want to scan for faults in the north kent area, PM me.
All for a pint of Strongbow.

The FordMPV.com Forum - The free forum for questions and answers relating to the Ford Galaxy, S-Max and C-Max

Offline insanitybeard

  • Greetings from Mr Chick!
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  • Posts: 2427
  • Thanked: 71
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '54 130ps TDI Ghia
  • First Name: Paul
  • Region: South West
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #7 on: September 28, 2015, 11:18:33 PM »
As an alternative if you don't want to use copper pipe I used a short length of 3/4" bore nitrile rubber hose. I can't remember how much coolant drained out when disconnecting it, 1-2 litres maximum, maybe less.
« Last Edit: September 28, 2015, 11:19:39 PM by insanitybeard »
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Offline SilverBeast

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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '05 TDI (130) Ghia
  • Region: Yorkshire
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #8 on: September 28, 2015, 11:23:58 PM »
You can turn round one of the two standard hoses ( the longer one if I recall) and use it to link the two fixed rigid pipes together. I ran mine like this for some time. I also just closed the disconnected connector in a ziplock bag and also put more tape on it to keep it dry. I think I tie wrapped the hose and wiring connector up so they didn't hang down and risk getting caught on anything.

Offline SilverBeast

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  • Posts: 497
  • Thanked: 14
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '05 TDI (130) Ghia
  • Region: Yorkshire
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2015, 08:59:12 PM »
Oh ... and I plugged the diesel feed from the pump with a screw

Offline dark_angel_tgv

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  • Posts: 21
  • Thanked: 1
  • Model: Sharan Mk2
  • Spec: 2005,1.9 TDI,96 KW
  • Region: Non UK
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2015, 11:08:09 PM »
Thank you all for your responses!I will wait for the week-end to come and then I'll start working on the heater.now that I have all the answers for my qestions,all that remains is to hope for the best with the repairs.:-)

Offline dark_angel_tgv

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  • Posts: 21
  • Thanked: 1
  • Model: Sharan Mk2
  • Spec: 2005,1.9 TDI,96 KW
  • Region: Non UK
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2015, 04:55:05 PM »
So,after 2.5 hours,I was done.I've removed the heater and connected the coolant hoses with a cooper pipe.
After disasembling the heater,I noticed that the fan is not turning.it must be corroded or something.I tried to remove it from the motor,but no success...
How can I remove the fan(the black plastic thing) from the motor?I tried to insert 2 small screwdrivers under it and pull upright,I sprayed penetrating oil to help remove it,but with no success.it is cracking,but it's like glued in place...
Any sugestions on how to remove it?
And how many mm should be between the fan bottom and the aluminium case?mine didn't have any space between.
How can I check the glowplug if it's working ok(i think is a ceramic glow plug)?can i check it with a 9 volt battery(the ones from kids toys),or I will destroy it like that?

Offline SilverBeast

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  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '05 TDI (130) Ghia
  • Region: Yorkshire
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2015, 09:54:09 PM »
I never removed the fan from the motor (or removed the motor on mine).  There was very little clearance between the plastic "dome" of the fan and the housing.  If forces more air through where it should do rather than leaking out that way.

You will have the newer ceramic glow plug on the D5Z-F (same as my 2005 TDI 130) which are much more reliable.  I tested mine with a car battery, just don't leave it connected for very long - just long enough to see it glows red.  Mine had a controller fault which I will look at at some point, everything else seems to work.  A lot of the faults on this model I have read about seem to be controller rather than anything else (mine was reporting both open circuit and short circuit on the glow plug).  I got a replacement from ebay that had been fitted new to a car and only been used for 3-6months before it was removed.

Offline dark_angel_tgv

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  • Posts: 21
  • Thanked: 1
  • Model: Sharan Mk2
  • Spec: 2005,1.9 TDI,96 KW
  • Region: Non UK
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2015, 06:56:31 AM »
Here's the errors that I've found by scanning with VCDS.
Address 18: Aux. Heat        Labels: 7M3-815-071.clb
   Part No: 7M3 815 071 B
   Component: HEIZG. B/D5W       0001 
   VCID: 2F677849EDF89859C61-5178
5 Faults Found:
01492 - Function Lock-Out
            35-00 -  -
01409 - Repeated Flame-Out
            35-00 -  -
01409 - Repeated Flame-Out
            35-00 -  -
01409 - Repeated Flame-Out
            35-00 -  -
01409 - Repeated Flame-Out
            35-00 -  -
From what I've read, the first error is because the motor is blocked and the second is caussed by the glow plug protection.I've bought a new glow plug prottection,new gaskets,but before assembly,I have to remove the fan also to fix what's wrong.


Offline Chrispb

  • Mindsaysyesbodysaysnono
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  • Thanked: 112
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2 Auto
  • Spec: 52reg TDI 115 Ghia
  • First Name: Chris
  • Region: South East
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: bypassing heater temperature sensor
« Reply #14 on: October 08, 2015, 02:27:55 PM »
Repeated flame outs will cause a lock out.
Flame outs can be caused by low fuel level especially when facing downhill.
Clear fault codes and make sure you have minimum of a quarter tank on the level.
2009 Kia Sedona GS In Black 2.9CRDI 183PS. 5 Speed Manual WAV.
2003 MK2 Galaxy Ghia In Solid Black 1.9 TDI 115PS. 5 Speed Automatic.

Upgraded Eberspächer booster heater  to independent heating with 7 day timer.

With VCDS lite (full version) need a code clearing or want to scan for faults in the north kent area, PM me.
All for a pint of Strongbow.

The FordMPV.com Forum - The free forum for questions and answers relating to the Ford Galaxy, S-Max and C-Max

 

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