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Author Topic: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting  (Read 5183 times)

Offline insanitybeard

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D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« on: September 20, 2014, 10:32:34 AM »
Just an [FYI] really for anybody out there wanting to tackle it and try to trace any faults (the ECU on the D5Z-F booster heater is prone to failure by all accounts- mine has!).

Being that I'd resigned myself to the fact that I'd need to get a new ECU to get my booster back up and running I figured I had nothing to lose by attempting (in a semi-serious way!) to de-pot the old one. The potting compound used on the ECU I had is fairly soft and easily cut with a knife but you have to be very careful not to start cutting into the circuit board or components. Basically, I used a knife to cut the bulk of the stuff out and cut around the edge of the board before resorting to a blunt plastic object once I was closer to the circuit board itself to avoid gouging/ damaging the electronics. Because the potting also covers the reverse (blind side) of the circuit board that you can't get to whilst it's still in the aluminium housing, it's still a bugger to get the circuit board out as you can't free it from all of the potting when it's in situ and you have to carefully lever it free with a broad flat screwdriver once you've cut out as much of the potting as you can and removed the retaining screws. There are a couple of plastic lugs on the connector body where the cable connecting the ECU to the vehicle body emerges from the aluminium housing that are melted/ expanded over when the unit is assembled that require trimming so that they can be pushed back through the housing, and crucially, the connector port in the aluminium housing body (where the booster heater's internal multiplug connects to) is fitted from the reverse side- (i.e, actually in through the connector port itself- it will not come out with the circuit board) to remove the circuit board without damage you must de-solder the pins (all 14 of 'em!) on said connector where they are soldered to the circuit board, allowing you to remove the circuit board whilst leaving the connector body and pins still in the aluminium housing. I didn't know this when I was trying to dismantle it, I expected the connector to come out with the circuit board so ended up doing some damage in the process. The circuit board is also held to the body by 5x size 8 torx screws which you can only see/ get to once you've removed the bulk of the (accessible) potting compound. Even with the accessible potting and the torx screws removed you still have to lever the circuit board free- very carefully of course!

As you can see, cutting out the potting makes a big mess, and is time consuming. I'm not sure which solvents you could use to dissolve the residue on the components/ circuit board once you've removed the majority of the potting that wouldn't damage the components.

2882-0
 ^Before the mess!


2884-1
 ^Anyone for Jello?


2886-2
 ^Detail of the circuit board
In the above image, the 5 retaining screw holes are circled red, the melted plastic lugs on the cable connector body that need trimming (before the circuit board will come out of the housing) are circled yellow and the locations for the 14 soldered pins (that require de-soldering before attempting to remove the circuit board) for the connector on the circuit board are circled orange (you'll need to view the image full size to see these properly). The connector itself sits over these. Bear in mind, the picture is of the circuit board from the opposite side to that which you will see whilst trying to de-pot it from the aluminium housing.

You will note that the (damaged) 14 pin connector body is free from the aluminium housing in the above picture, this is because I didn't know how it was assembled until I got it all apart- to avoid damage, leave the connector body installed (it's glued in place) in the housing and free it's connector pins from the circuit board by desoldering them. This will allow you to remove the circuit board without damage to either the connector body, pins or the circuit board itself.



   
« Last Edit: September 20, 2014, 11:58:46 AM by insanitybeard »
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Offline steve329

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2014, 10:47:11 AM »
Nice work! Have you managed to fix it then? :-/

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2014, 11:17:40 AM »
Unfortunately not, as I caused some damage to the electrical connector as I was unaware of how it was assembled until I got it apart I shan't bother trying to find out what was wrong with this one, or trying to fix it. I wasn't expecting to get it apart and successfully repair it anyway, so I've not lost anything, perhaps the info will be helpful to some others wishing to give it a go!
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Offline barlidge

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2014, 10:04:30 PM »
I tried the same procedure with my faulty ECU (the earlier model) and also damaged it in the process of trying to release it so like you didnt bother to look any further.  They really are designed not to come out.

Offline SilverBeast

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2014, 10:11:31 PM »
My old D5Z-F is still in the garage.  I will probably look at it once I've sorted my divorce/house move etc out and see if I can fix it, so thanks it will be useful for me.  I think recall seeing details on the other Forum on how to depot, which may have included a solvent you could use.  If I recall it also had information on how to convert to use the older D5W-Z heater instead too.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2014, 05:50:22 PM »
Following your advice about removing the heater from the vehicle (and bypassing the coolant pipework) to do battle with it Richard (Silverbeast), I removed the complete unit and sure enough whilst attempting to strip it, 3 of the 4 torx bolts that hold the heater into it's steel mounting cage sheared off, plus one of the small top cover screws, so at least bypassing the coolant supply allows me to work on it at leisure.

Just in case it's helpful to anybody else, with the heater and the two rubber coolant pipes to and from the heater removed, I bypassed the whole setup by installing a 260mm long piece of 3/4" bore nitrile rubber hose that was supplied & cut to length by my local branch of Pirtek for just over a fiver, bargain! Here it is installed, looks almost factory!:

2894-0

I'm in two minds what to do about repairing the heater, the ECU I can buy for about £170 but I'll need to get the sheared screws drilled out by a local machine shop (I don't own or have access to a pillar drill) so that'll cost a bit more, whereas there is an [eBay] seller in Germany selling the whole unit for £315 delivered, I'm not sure whether to just renew the whole thing and be safe in the knowledge that the fan blower and glowplug are all new as well.......
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Offline barlidge

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2014, 09:39:31 PM »
If you are local to me (mid Beds) you'd be more than welcome to the use of my pillar drill. I also have mig/tig to attempt welding a nut on.  If not maybe someone more local can help
« Last Edit: September 25, 2014, 09:41:46 PM by barlidge »

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2014, 07:35:35 PM »
Thanks for the offer! I'm down in the South West (Devon) unfortunately so a bit too far away! Never mind, there is (or was!) a good little local company that does cylinder head skimming and other automotive related engineering tasks that should have no trouble tackling it for me, if I decide to repair the old unit!

 [THANKS]
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Offline Mirez

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #8 on: September 26, 2014, 09:00:37 PM »
Only just seen this thread - good work sir! Paul, there is a heater on the 55 plate bamma I'm in the middle of disassembling, I know its showing a flame-out lock-out error but I've not even been underneath yet to dismantle any of that. Do you wanna try it? I would imagine its a F based on the year.
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
06 VW EOS 2.0 T-FSI 210 Sport in Deep Black Pearl
With red leather interior with full Caractere bodykit, Remapped at 255bhp and sitting on 19's
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With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)

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Offline insanitybeard

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2014, 09:43:34 PM »
Thanks for the offer Mark, may be worth a go if it's the right model- is the flame out code likely to be a glow plug/ fuel supply issue or a packed up secondary water pump do you reckon?
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Offline Mirez

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2014, 10:22:03 PM »
Glow pug I would guess but I'll take it off and measure for you
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
06 VW EOS 2.0 T-FSI 210 Sport in Deep Black Pearl
With red leather interior with full Caractere bodykit, Remapped at 255bhp and sitting on 19's
14 VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI 177 R-Line in Deep Black Pearl
With black leather interior, panoramic sunroof and bi-xenon headlights.
08 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)

VCDS HEX/CAN - Scans/Coding done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2014, 11:24:27 PM »
Thanks Mark, aren't the ceramic glow plugs fitted to these later heaters supposedly more robust and less prone to failure than the earlier ones? Of course nothing's immune from giving trouble!
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Offline Chrispb

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #12 on: September 27, 2014, 12:28:42 AM »
Don't forget flame out is commonly cause by fuel starvation EG. when car facing downhill with less than a quarter in the tank.
I would plug it in and clear the lock out first, you may find there's nothing wrong with it.
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Offline niall

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #13 on: August 24, 2015, 06:59:22 PM »
Hi all....Please, if anyone has one of the D5Z-F controllers, even damaged, that they don't want, I will gladly pay for the postage to Ireland!!

Just to mess with them...I've no intention of selling them on.

Thanks

Niall

Offline yeshu26

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #14 on: March 11, 2017, 07:00:45 PM »
something like this.  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-TRANSPORTER-T5-2003-2010-FUEL-METERING-PUMP-FOR-ADDITIONAL-HEATER-4B0963303-/131797412101?hash=item1eafbce905:g:mqYAAOSwaG9XJIUD

I have opened the aux heater and repaired the faulty MOSFET, but before I put it back, I must independently test the metering pump and the aux water pump.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: D5Z-F booster heater ECU depotting
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2017, 09:43:38 AM »
Whereabouts on the circuit board did you find the fault? Did you take any pictures to assist others in diagnosing this common fault with the D5Z-F ECU?
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

 

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