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Author Topic: MOT failure  (Read 13152 times)

Offline insanitybeard

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MOT failure
« on: September 13, 2016, 06:43:31 PM »
MOT time on my Gal recently, was hoping for a sail through but failed on 3 items this year, 2 split balljoint rubbers (one on the nearside front lower arm and one on the offside front anti-roll bar drop link) and a broken rear spring! Not sure if busted rear springs are a common issue on the Mk2 but the offside spring had broken right in the lower cup, losing about 1/4 of a complete turn of coil (just visible on the right hand spring in the below picture). It hadn't affected the ride height or handling to a noticeable degree but had to be put right  ::) :

4553-0

Next thing is I knew that the brake discs and pads weren't fantastic (rear especially)- the rear pads aren't worn out but it looks like some cheapskate has previously fitted new pads without replacing the discs and as a result they're both shot. As they weren't worn out I would have let them go a bit longer but I noticed my offside rear brake was running hot recently. I'd hoped new discs and pads and a good clean and grease of the caliper bracket would have sorted this but when I pulled the caliper off the caliper piston dust sealing boot had been split (whoever had wound the piston back when replacing the pads previously had obviously not been careful and had allowed the boot to rotate with the piston until it had torn) which must have allowed brake dust and other road dirt to ingress and make the piston bind- it was tight as hell to wind back in and was still binding after I'd cleaned the carrier etc up, greased the sliders and re-assembled it all which brings me to my next job:

4561-1

You can buy kits with new seals and a new piston to overhaul an existing caliper but as the old piston was obviously binding there's a chance the caliper piston bore is scored, plus getting the old piston out could be a nightmare, plus when you can get a pukka new original fitment (Lucas) caliper from the likes of [eBay] for 60 quid with no surcharge or need to return the old one, it's not a gamble worth taking IMO.

So next job is replace the rear discs and pads (no point in me sticking the replacements on until the binding caliper was sorted out) and the offside rear caliper, hopefully the nearside caliper won't be shot as well (though I know for a fact at least it isn't binding!). Which brings me to my final point, if you have to replace rear pads beware as there are a couple of different options- I think the V6 model has a slightly different setup with different (larger) pads. The new discs I bought from Euro were fine (268mm diameter) but there were 2 choices of pads- being that my Galaxy had 16" factory fit wheels I chose the pads listed for 16" wheels. However, instead of saying 'for 16" wheels' I think it possibly should have said 'V6 version' as the pads were not the same and would not fit, as you can see in the below comparison. I ended up having to re-order and swap the pads for those listed for 15" wheels, I think these must fit the majority of Mk2's except the V6:

4557-2
« Last Edit: September 13, 2016, 06:55:28 PM by insanitybeard »
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Offline Mirez

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2016, 03:47:02 PM »
I've seen a few rear coils snap but I wouldn't say its a common sight on the Galaxy. (Compared to the Golf Estate which has a massive failure rate) but the rear calipers are a known area of weekness.

I too have fallen foul of the rear brake pad issues on many an occasion, it appears they fitted whatever they felt like TBH! I have had two 2004 130's in tha past, one of which used the V6 style ones and the other used the smaller ones! Since the calliper brackets phyically don't fit between the two (The mount points on the rear trailing arms are different) I fail to see how they picked the right stuff in the factory!
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
06 VW EOS 2.0 T-FSI 210 Sport in Deep Black Pearl
With red leather interior with full Caractere bodykit, Remapped at 255bhp and sitting on 19's
14 VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI 177 R-Line in Deep Black Pearl
With black leather interior, panoramic sunroof and bi-xenon headlights.
08 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)

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Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2016, 06:49:20 PM »
Interesting, I wonder how the dealers would differentiate between which parts to supply then unless they fitted type A to a certain run of chassis numbers with a clearly defined range/ cutoff and type B to another?! If the mounting points are different for the caliper brackets then that presumably means more than one type of trailing arm was used? I'd always assumed the trailing arms would be the same for all models!
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Offline Mirez

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2016, 08:43:18 PM »
Indeed, I can only assume its by chassis number. There are at least two variants of trailing arms as I upgraded the brakes on my own Galaxy when I broke a V6, the fronts just bolted on but the rears were impossible without changing the arms (which I didnt bother with)
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
06 VW EOS 2.0 T-FSI 210 Sport in Deep Black Pearl
With red leather interior with full Caractere bodykit, Remapped at 255bhp and sitting on 19's
14 VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI 177 R-Line in Deep Black Pearl
With black leather interior, panoramic sunroof and bi-xenon headlights.
08 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)

VCDS HEX/CAN - Scans/Coding done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2016, 01:42:58 PM »
Did you find the rear discs were still the same diameter with the 2 different pad setups or did they differ as well? I'm assuming if the pads & caliper brackets were different then the calipers themselves were also different? Makes it a bit of a minefield when it comes to replacing associated parts with the rear brakes!
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Offline Mirez

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2016, 02:27:52 PM »
No the setup was entirely different; bigger discs, pads and callipers. Obviously I had everything from the V6 but since it wouldnt bolt on I decided the hassle outweighed the benefit.
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
06 VW EOS 2.0 T-FSI 210 Sport in Deep Black Pearl
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14 VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI 177 R-Line in Deep Black Pearl
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08 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)

VCDS HEX/CAN - Scans/Coding done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2016, 11:39:28 AM »
Well that's the new rear brakes and caliper fitted, fortunately it was only the one caliper that was knackered, the dust seal was fine on the other one and the piston wound back dead easy! ??? Now just going to change the brake fluid. One of the rear dampers is leaking a bit so that's yet another job to tackle at some point........  ::)

4599-0

The reason for the binding caliper:  ::)

4605-1

« Last Edit: September 17, 2016, 11:43:43 AM by insanitybeard »
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Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2016, 01:19:55 PM »
And just for the hell of it, I thought I'd see if the piston would come out- and it did without major trauma, I've never seen the internals so it was quite interesting! I think with a new seal kit and piston it would have been fine to go again, there are a few rust marks and a bit of pitting on the piston sealing surface and a deep score, I don't know how it would have got there as it's too deep to have been caused by dirt unless somebody previously slipped with a screwdriver skewering the dust boot and gouging the piston in the process!

If anyone out there wants a caliper to rebuild you can have this old one cheap!  :D The bore in the caliper looks good to go again.

4607-0
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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2016, 06:53:53 PM »
The rear calliper is a job I have got to do for exactly same reason you did,looks like someone previously (pick Arthur oundle) used grips,screwdriver or some other tool rather than correct one to push piston back damaging boot and piston.

It wound back with my tool but was a tad tight and does stick slightly.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2016, 09:40:02 PM »
I've got a caliper going cheap, just needs a piston and seal kit if you're interested.....  :P I had to hold the wind back tool body with an adjustable spanner and use a spanner on the screw to wind the piston back, and even then it was still bloody tough! Bizarre thing was the piston on the other side caliper went back with no hassle at all, but then the boot on that one was perfect. Strange how whoever 'worked' on it before got one back in fine and messed up the other. But then they also stuck new pads on a knackered pair of discs..... The discs I've just replaced had to be the factory fitted ones, now on 103k......  ???
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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #10 on: September 17, 2016, 10:28:55 PM »
Mine wasn't that tight offside went in fine the near side I had to get a spanner in handle to wind it in.
Amazing the stuff some people do on cars or should I say don't do,don't see point putting new pads on worn disks.

I have a new calliper ready to go when I find time to fit it,like you I thought pointless rebuilding when a replacement calliper is cheap enough.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2016, 07:12:45 PM »
The old dross I removed...... Absolutely knackered original factory fitted discs with Unipart pads, complete with rust ridges on the discs and corresponding grooves worn into the pads!:

4621-0

4623-1


Next up to replace, along with the rear spring seat cups to stop the new springs going the same way as the old ones!:

4625-2

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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #12 on: September 28, 2016, 07:43:43 PM »
Had monies worth out of them disks then?

According to receipts with mine it has had 2 sets of Brembo all round prior to me getting it at 150k. I have since changed all round again as they resembled what you removed from yours.

Always something needs doing on these ain't there? My latest project is the radio aerial reception not that great so wiring up the roof aerial it has had fitted previously along with the factory one.... Vw diversity style.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #13 on: September 28, 2016, 11:21:49 PM »
Yeah, I suppose they've done well to last to 103k (well the discs anyway)! As you say, always seems to be something to do, since failing the MOT I've done the work to remedy the MOT defects, and also replaced rear discs, pads and a caliper with the dampers and spring seats to follow. And then the pollen filter. Then the driver's seat base foam. Which should bring to a close my Galaxy related tasks before the onset of winter! I'll leave cleaning the inlet tract for next spring! At least (touchwood) the new cam position sensor seems to have cured that intermittent starting issue which has bugged me ever since buying the vehicle!
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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #14 on: September 29, 2016, 12:19:09 AM »
Certainly been busy lately then?

Have you sourced a replacement seat base foam for yours or have you acquired a used seat?
Mines iffy on the edge where metal bar has worn it out,I used some foam under cover to pack it out but want to sort properly at some point.

That's good news the intermittent starting problem seems to have been resolved.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2016, 12:20:00 AM by johnnyroper »

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #15 on: September 29, 2016, 08:48:33 AM »
Yeah, glad to put that issue to bed, it's infuriating to get in the car only for it to crank and crank and crank, but then for it to run fine once it does eventually start!

I bought a new seat base foam pad, because of the vehicle height the outside edge 'wing' of the seat base pad suffers after prolonged use with shuffling bums getting in and out of the vehicle. My old one isn't terrible really but I'm a fussy bugger so decided to replace it. I'll post a couple pictures of my old one when I do the swap, if it's better than what you've got you can have it for not silly money if you're interested!

4627-0
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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #16 on: September 29, 2016, 09:19:46 AM »
Mine is disintegrated completely in that area.
What did the cushion set you back,assume it was from a dealer?

If once yours is out its better than mine I might well take you up on that.

Offline mike wilson

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #17 on: September 29, 2016, 09:51:02 AM »
I'm interested in where you found the seat cushion as well.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #18 on: September 29, 2016, 11:18:50 AM »
I got it from VW actually although the last time I checked with my pals at Ford it was still available from them as well. Chris previously posted about it here. I just paid 95 including VAT for the thing (and that was with the dealer giving me a 10% discount) so you've got to be quite enthusiastic to want to pay that amount of money for it!
« Last Edit: September 29, 2016, 11:19:56 AM by insanitybeard »
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Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #19 on: October 01, 2016, 10:55:22 AM »
Fitted the new dampers, pretty easy job on these vehicles (will do a writeup at some point), the nearside rear damper has had a slight leak for a while now so I decided to order up some new ones during one of Euro car parts frequent X% off 'sales', and I'm glad I did as the leaking damper has just given up completely, I'd only cleaned the oil misting off of it when I did the rear brakes recently and there was a load more oil on it when I checked yesterday- it had started to leak properly instead of just misting, plus I could hear it creaking whilst driving over bumps and when I took it off and inspected it the damping action had gone as well.

Comparison of the O.E / replacement Sachs dampers- the new ones are a bit slimmer and have a plastic shroud instead of the metal shroud fitted to the O.E ones. You can see the oil on the old one!:

4634-0

To replace them it's simply a case of two bolts, you don't even need to take the wheel off unless you want to- though you do need to jack up the corner you are working on to take the weight off of the suspension. The top (18mm) headed bolt is accessed through the wheelarch at the rear by removing the 2 rearmost size 25 torx wheelarch liner screws and pulling the liner forward a bit. The lower bolt has a 21mm head and a 21mm nut on the (outside) end of it instead of it bolting directly into a threaded hole in the trailing arm. You can simply hold the nut with a 21mm spanner whilst you unscrew the bolt from the inside.

I also replaced the rear spring seat lower cups after renewing the rear springs recently, below shows why I needed to!:

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Although the design means it's easy to remove and refit the rear springs, I don't like the (I.M.O) overly small spring seating surface on the trailing arm (i.e, moving) end. I would have preferred a much broader in diameter spring seat with a correspondingly larger rubber seat cup to give more bearing surface, as you can see after prolonged use the spring just wears through the cup and rubs directly on the metal trailing arm, when this happens the protective paint/ coating on the spring wears through and the spring begins to rust, which is ultimately why one of my springs had broken- the rubber cup had worn through and the spring had rusted until it failed.

The below image shows the spring seating area on the trailing arm with the cup removed. Too small for my liking- I also couldn't get a satisfactory (to me anyway) fit between the spring, trailing arm and cup because when I fitted it up and tried putting the vehicle weight back onto the rear suspension, the spring kept on riding off of the seat slightly on the inside, this will accelerate wear on the seat, the spring and the cup as the load isn't being transmitted evenly. I haven't worked out yet if I'm doing something wrong or if that's just the way it is but I've tried every damn thing I can to keep it square and every time I load it up the spring partly rides off of the lip. Maybe I worry too much!  ::) :

4638-2

The below picture shows the issue- where the arrow is, you can see the spring has slightly 'ridden off' the cup/ seat on the left but isn't contacting it much on the right. I don't think I can get it any better, due to the way in which the rear trailing arm pivots when the suspension is working it'll probably only settle back into the position it's shown in the picture in anyway!:

4640-3

« Last Edit: October 01, 2016, 11:22:33 AM by insanitybeard »
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Offline steveo59

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #20 on: October 01, 2016, 09:50:03 PM »
Hi,
I agree with you about the rear spring cap being too small. On mine there was a grinding noise as I was driving along as the spring grinded on the triling arm metal to metal. I use to spray WD40 on it every few weeks to get rid of the noise. Eventually I replaced them, 1 side disappeared after a couple of weeks and the other onewas worn away. I replaced them again and after a short time the noise was back. This time I replaced both coil springs and the seat caps and so far ok.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #21 on: October 04, 2016, 09:47:32 AM »
Glad it's not just me then! Anybody else out there interested in checking their rear spring seat cups to see what state they're in and if the springs are seated in a similar way to mine?!
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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #22 on: October 04, 2016, 09:59:29 AM »
I will take a look under mine later and report back what I find

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #23 on: October 04, 2016, 11:22:17 AM »
 [THANKS] Much obliged!
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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #24 on: October 04, 2016, 03:49:57 PM »
See what you mean,difficult to see but I think the rubber seat on mine is a bit knackered from Spring end rubbing.

4650-0

4652-1

« Last Edit: October 04, 2016, 06:01:30 PM by insanitybeard »

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #25 on: October 04, 2016, 06:04:01 PM »
Thanks for that, it's not easy to see like you say. Just as a side note, it may be the perspective but that second image you posted- that spring doesn't look at all central on the seat- you haven't got a busted nearside spring have you?!  :o
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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #26 on: October 04, 2016, 06:43:03 PM »
I hadn't even noticed that but looking now I think you are spot on there it don't look right does it?

Looks like couple of springs and seats are next job now...... To change them did you jack up and release axle from shock to extract the springs?

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #27 on: October 04, 2016, 07:03:35 PM »
Lower the anti roll bar first (6x 13mm headed bolts- though you only need to slacken the 2 bolts clamping the bar to the axle- fully remove the clamps that secure the bar to the trailing arms though) - it's much easier if you do  ;) Then just loosen and remove the bottom damper bolt (hold the nut on the wheel side with a 21mm spanner and unbolt it from the inside- 21mm headed bolt), you can actually do all of it without removing the wheel but you'll get better access if you do. The trailing arm will then drop- you'll need a jack able to jack the vehicle up sufficiently high in order to drop the arm far enough so that you can wangle the spring out.

If your seat cups are knackered I don't think you can get aftermarket ones- genuine ones available here. I opted for Sachs springs which I'd hoped would be identical to the O.E ones but the O.E springs differ slightly in that they taper right at the ends- the wire diameter reduces right at the end both top and bottom, whereas my replacements don't. I can't see this really affecting the spring centralising on the seat though so I don't know if it has any bearing on my issue.
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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #28 on: October 04, 2016, 08:26:55 PM »
Nice one for the advise on replacing them makes it more clear.

Thanks for link about the cups I have seen some for 10 a piece so will order them along with springs and get a crack on next week.

Will see how they sit when replaced and see if same as yours.

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #29 on: October 05, 2016, 09:08:31 AM »
No worries, it'll be interesting to see if you find the same thing or if an alternative brand of spring sits better on the seat. The tapered ends of the O.E springs seem to make more of a difference to the upper spring seat cup because the upper cup has lugs which fit round the uppermost coil of the spring, the new springs being thicker at the ends don't fit these lugs as nicely as the original springs but I still can't see that making much difference to the way the spring seats on the lower cup unless the spring is being forced out of line (the upper spring seat cup pushes over the bump stop which fits through the centre of the cup).

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Offline Mirez

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #30 on: October 05, 2016, 01:08:19 PM »
When I fitted the lowering kit at 60k mine were knackered and like yours, metal on metal was occuring. I replaced them with OEM and they are still looking OKish at 115k.
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Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #31 on: October 05, 2016, 01:51:59 PM »
Was it a factory or aftermarket lowering kit that you fitted? Can you recall if the lowering springs you fitted tapered off right at the ends of the top/ bottom coils?
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Offline Mirez

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #32 on: October 05, 2016, 04:18:01 PM »
The factory 35mm kit from Eibach, iirc they are strait cut and fitted against the 'stop' on the seat with a gap. Looking now the cup seems to have distorted to accept them more readily.
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
06 VW EOS 2.0 T-FSI 210 Sport in Deep Black Pearl
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14 VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI 177 R-Line in Deep Black Pearl
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VCDS HEX/CAN - Scans/Coding done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #33 on: October 05, 2016, 05:18:45 PM »
Thanks Mark, I think I may have not explained what I mean very well- the wire diameter of the original spring 'reduces' at the ends both top and bottom. It's not that obvious but if you look closely at the below picture of my original spring you can just about see it:

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Offline Mirez

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #34 on: October 05, 2016, 06:24:41 PM »
Ahh I get it, yes thats the same on the kit and most modern springs tbh. It allows a twin level of compression so you get comfort normally and then strength when pushing it...
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Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #35 on: October 05, 2016, 07:26:19 PM »
Consider me surprised then that the Sachs springs I bought as replacements (which I'd hoped would have been as good as like for like) don't have the tapered ends!

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Offline mike wilson

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #36 on: October 06, 2016, 09:29:43 AM »
The Sachs also doesn't look as if the ends are in the same place around the longitudinal axis as the original.

Here's the Sachs spring catalogue. Some interesting information about spring forms but no mention of tapered wires.
https://mediaservices.zf.com/Redirect.do?urlId=qefojNa%2FOC8%3D

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #37 on: October 06, 2016, 10:17:14 AM »
You are correct, the coil ends are not in the same place as on the original spring- they were virtually 'in line' on the O.E spring whereas there's around a 90 degree 'gap' with the Sachs ones. Which isn't the end of the world as although the lower cup is fixed on the trailing arm by a locating nub and the spring end has to butt up against it, the upper mounting cup can be orientated in any direction. Perhaps the thicker wire ends and slightly different orientation are contributing to the less than perfect way (I.M.O) that the spring centralises on the lower seat cup which seems to put the cup under undue stress and leave it susceptible to rapid wear though. This issue does seem to occur with the O.E springs as well though and is of course the reason my original spring failed, so having just paid eighty odd quid for these springs I'm loathed to go and buy genuine ones at what will undoubtedly be over a hundred quid each as an educated guess.... sod it, I'll run it and see how the Sachs ones last. It's not the best of designs as I've said previously.
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Offline Stumuzz

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #38 on: October 06, 2016, 01:18:33 PM »
Are the length's the same? (new and old springs)
Would it be possible to grind some off and add the taper.
Then repaint lacquer it afterwards?
Just a thought.

Stuart.
« Last Edit: October 06, 2016, 01:22:32 PM by Stumuzz »
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Offline mike wilson

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #39 on: October 07, 2016, 09:17:44 AM »
Given the forces on them, you would expect those spring cups to be made from PTFE or polyurethane rather than, as they appear, neoprene.

I think I'll have a look at my original 150,000mile setup at the weekend.....

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #40 on: October 07, 2016, 09:43:57 AM »
Exactly, given the small contact area of the seat I would expect the cups to a) be broader and b) made of nylon or polyurethane etc, something tougher like you say. I had a quick look but it doesn't look like you can get uprated aftermarket seat cups either.
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Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #41 on: November 09, 2016, 05:31:46 PM »
Well, despite renewing the lower spring seats as well as the springs themselves I can hear the bloody things creaking (which is driving me nuts!  [bash] ) which means that the springs are rubbing directly against the metal of the trailing arm as I feared previously when I said that I wasn't happy with the way the springs seemed to be riding off of the lower seats. Ho hum, I wonder if the non-tapered spring ends of the Sachs springs that I fitted are exacerbating the problem. A job for spring I think, can't be doing with messing around with that now that winter is upon us, assuming that I don't drive the thing into the canal before then when the noise finally makes me snap!  [WHACK]
« Last Edit: November 09, 2016, 05:37:53 PM by insanitybeard »
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Offline johnnyroper

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #42 on: November 09, 2016, 06:44:56 PM »
Nightmare,you going to fit genuine springs after winter then?

I still haven't got round to fitting mine yet,got some genuine springs and seats all ready to go if I ever find the time to do it.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #43 on: November 09, 2016, 06:50:10 PM »
I can't be doing with the hassle of doing it now with the dark nights and winter in general to be honest, I'll revisit it in spring if I can put up with the noise until then- don't get me wrong, it's not loud, it's quite subtle but it grates on me because I know it's not bloody right!  [CRY]

Just out of interest, how much did you pay for genuine springs? And did you get 'em from Ford or VW?
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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #44 on: November 09, 2016, 08:04:05 PM »
I know what you mean about knowing something not right and getting on nerves.

Paid 10 a piece for the cups from ford.

Pair of OE febi rear springs with blue stripe was 100 through a friend who works at VW dealer in brum.

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #46 on: November 14, 2016, 12:12:26 PM »
Well I've just had a quick look at the rear springs by lying underneath the car, both lower spring seats that I replaced have puckered up under the load from the springs, no wonder it's rubbing. :( Bloody hell, those Sachs springs are gonna have to go. I can only think that the non-tapered wire ends/ end coils that do not match the original spring profile and position are to blame for the bad fit.  [bash]
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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #47 on: November 14, 2016, 12:19:52 PM »
Just been under mine turns out springs and cups are fairly new they were changed at ford shortly before I got the car. Reason nearside looked odd I can only assume was because I had just dropped car of the jack on one side when I took the picture? All is ok now and springs in good condition and sitting ok.

Needless to say new springs on way back to my mate for a refund.

I do have 2 brand new ford cups if you need them for when you change springs again? Yours for cost of postage.

Offline insanitybeard

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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #48 on: November 14, 2016, 12:27:34 PM »
Shame you've sent the springs back, I might've made you an offer for 'em! If the cups are surplus then I'll take 'em off your hands, happy to pay you for them, I wouldn't expect 'em for nowt, even if I did pay the postage!  cheers
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Re: MOT failure
« Reply #49 on: November 14, 2016, 12:32:38 PM »
Sorry I didn't think about offering them on here,just thought get them back and get refund before leaving it to late to.

Yes they are surplus just cost of postage is fine as they will only sit there doing nothing. PayPal me a fiver and your address and I will get them posted to you.

 

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