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Author Topic: Running a cable  (Read 2671 times)

Offline Tezerez

  • *
  • Posts: 88
  • Thanked: 1
  • Model: Kuga
  • Spec: 61 tdci 163 Titani
  • Region: Yorkshire
  • Country: United Kingdom
Running a cable
« on: November 17, 2013, 08:41:59 PM »
Hi,
Having had the main red feed wire to the booster heater fixed, it now works again.
However, I have just completed a round trip Leeds-Carlisle-Leeds, and when stopping at Carlisle the back at Leeds, the booster was still running, despite the engine temp showing 90 from 5 mins into each journey.
I have 2 questions: How much is this damaging economy?
And 2 : If I decide to run a switch from the temp sensor on the wiper linkage to stop the booster working once the engine is warm, where do I route the wire to the cabin ?
In the old days, you could run wires through various grommets, but now, the bulkhead is hardly visible.
Anyone who can suggest an easy route please?
Thank you in anticipation

Offline SilverBeast

  • *
  • Posts: 496
  • Thanked: 13
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: '05 TDI (130) Ghia
  • Region: Yorkshire
Re: Running a cable
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2013, 09:48:44 PM »
Hi Tezerz,

If you want to stop the booster from running, the wire feeding the temperature sensor is fed from a relay in the fuse box so it would be easiest to put the switch in this line, you wouldn't need to take a wire through the bulkhead.

I have just finished swapping the booster in mine as it had failed (it's the newer D5Z-F).  I'm looking to fit a switch to bypass the temperature sensor and keep it on, (as much so I can test it when it's warmer as I prefer fixing it when it's warm rather than freezing). I'm aiming to run a wire from the fuse box to the switch and run a single wire from it to the temperature sensor through the bulkhead, unless I can find the wire from the sensor to the booster in the cabin - I guess it runs along the trim next to the sill, past where the rear washer pipe usually leaks.

Offline Chrispb

  • Mindsaysyesbodysaysnono
  • *
  • Posts: 2980
  • Thanked: 91
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2 Auto
  • Spec: 52reg TDI 115 Ghia
  • First Name: Chris
  • Region: South East
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Running a cable
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2013, 04:53:59 AM »
Hi,
Having had the main red feed wire to the booster heater fixed, it now works again.
However, I have just completed a round trip Leeds-Carlisle-Leeds, and when stopping at Carlisle the back at Leeds, the booster was still running, despite the engine temp showing 90 from 5 mins into each journey.
I have 2 questions: How much is this damaging economy?
And 2 : If I decide to run a switch from the temp sensor on the wiper linkage to stop the booster working once the engine is warm, where do I route the wire to the cabin ?
In the old days, you could run wires through various grommets, but now, the bulkhead is hardly visible.
Anyone who can suggest an easy route please?
Thank you in anticipation
You would need to check output temp with VCDS it may have a faulty temp sensor in the heater, output should drop to low power output just around the 90deg mark, after running in low power mode for a few minutes if there's no fall in temp the heater will power off, if there is a fall in temp the heater will come back to full power (turning blowers on full will reduce engine temperature quite rapidly)

Try this, take car for a drive get up to 90 now while stationary turn front and rear blowers off, now observe booster heater it should go into low power first then shut off completely (about 10mins)

Run a two core cable through the bulkhead up to the wiper linkage remove the air sensor and connect cable to the multiplug, remove glove box there is a large grommet there just to the left of the heater blower motor comes through behind the gearbox.
2009 Kia Sedona GS In Black 2.9CRDI 183PS. 5 Speed Manual WAV.
2003 MK2 Galaxy Ghia In Solid Black 1.9 TDI 115PS. 5 Speed Automatic.

Upgraded Eberspächer booster heater  to independent heating with 7 day timer.

With VCDS lite (full version) need a code clearing or want to scan for faults in the north kent area, PM me.
All for a pint of Strongbow.

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Offline Tezerez

  • *
  • Posts: 88
  • Thanked: 1
  • Model: Kuga
  • Spec: 61 tdci 163 Titani
  • Region: Yorkshire
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Running a cable
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2013, 03:20:34 PM »
Thanks, Guys.
I know where to look for help, even with the obscure stuff!

Offline Tezerez

  • *
  • Posts: 88
  • Thanked: 1
  • Model: Kuga
  • Spec: 61 tdci 163 Titani
  • Region: Yorkshire
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Running a cable
« Reply #4 on: November 19, 2013, 07:36:24 PM »
Thanks, Chrisb.
Ran the test you suggested today, and it behaved exactly as you described.
Nice to know it is actually working correctly! Must be a rarity :)
Think I got worried when I could still hear it running at the end of a long run. Must have been either cold during whole journey, and using heater cooled engine, or perhaps engine started to cool in more local traffic at end of journey. New water pump and aux pump must be doing their job too!
Thanks again.

Offline JR Watchet

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  • Posts: 15
  • Thanked: 0
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: tdi
  • First Name: John
  • Region: South West
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: Running a cable
« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2019, 10:35:31 PM »
In case any use
just found brand new D5z-F in the uk
 
www.redmman.com in UK can get them £390 all in!

John

 

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