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Author Topic: S Max Buying Advice  (Read 1034 times)

Offline Phillip Hill

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S Max Buying Advice
« on: June 06, 2018, 09:16:34 AM »
Hi, my 53 plate 1.9TDI Galaxy has just failed its MOT and I don't fancy spending a fortune on it to get it through, plus it's feeling old and tired now. So I'm looking around for an S-Max - I have 4 kids 8,6,4 and 6 months. MOT expires in about a week so I'm in a bit of a rush, webuyanycar can have the Galaxy.

 

I have 6k to spend and I'm seeing mainly 2009-2012 models with about 100k on the clock. I understand the cam belt/water pump is 10 years or 125k miles which at this age they mainly haven't had done,  but I'm reading lots about DPF filters (not had a car with one on before) and that the life span of these is around the 100k miles.The car will mainly be used for various trips, wife to commute to work three times a week 15 miles each way, A roads mainly and I'll drive it to work, 25 miles each way, once a week to give it a blast. Of course in between this the odd run to Tesco etc. Probably 8-9k miles a year. It's questionable whether I need a Diesel, but I like the torque and still think I'll save a few quid as the difference in prices second hand isn't huge like if I was buying new.

Really I'm concerned about spending my budget to get the best car I can, probably 2012 2.0 Lite Titanium model with 100k miles then needing a new DPF in near future. Does anyone have any experience or can you offer me some advice on whether it's better to go for an older model with less miles on or a newer model with more miles. 6k is a lot of money and I want to get it right.


Thank you as always for any advice.


Phil


Offline johnnyroper

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  • Posts: 2949
  • Thanked: 148
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: 02 tdi 115 ghia
  • Region: South West
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: S Max Buying Advice
« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2018, 11:08:09 AM »
As your car has failed mot then it does not have a valid mot anymore despite old one having a week left to run.

Looking at your typical journeys I would advise getting a petrol engine as you will end up with DPF issues,they need to have some decent runs with engine at full temp to regenerate.

If it was me I would be looking at slightly older with less miles on and full history,also check mot history to see if any fails or advisories over the years.

Offline mike wilson

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  • Posts: 467
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  • Model: Galaxy Mk3
  • Spec: 14 TitX 2.0TDCI
  • Region: North East
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: S Max Buying Advice
« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2018, 12:03:07 PM »
The TDCI 1.8 does not have a DPF and has a more easily blanked EGR valve.  It does have a much more expensive cambelt situation, however.

Avoid Powershift models unless you have cast-iron proof of proper servicing.  Even then you are probably close to the service limit of the clutches, especially if it's been used for short journeys.

Offline Phillip Hill

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Re: S Max Buying Advice
« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2018, 01:58:27 PM »
The trouble is finding a petrol model and then they are very thirsty. I thought the 15 / 25 mile journeys would be enough to get it up to temp and avoid DPF issues, is that not so? Ford seem to have a set price for Cambelt /and water pump 399/499. I didn't see difference in 1.8 and 2.0. I've also read that 1.8 are based on very old engines, is that right? So would you recommend a 1.8 of the 2.0?

I've gone round and round in circles lol it's so hard trying to find the right model and not make a mistake!

Point taken about not having a valid MOT. Which makes me in even more of a rush!

Offline Phillip Hill

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Re: S Max Buying Advice
« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2018, 02:06:03 PM »
Also the petrols are more expensive. And I though Diesels were meant to hold their value more...

Offline johnnyroper

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  • Posts: 2949
  • Thanked: 148
  • Model: Galaxy Mk2
  • Spec: 02 tdi 115 ghia
  • Region: South West
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: S Max Buying Advice
« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2018, 05:51:48 PM »
With all this talk of diesel tax etc the prices are dropping for them.

For DPF to regen engine needs to be at full operating temp and have sustained engine rpm above 2500,and once started you need to allow roughly 15 minutes driving at that same rpm for it to complete, if it fails to complete it will try again when conditions are met. However that sort of running causes diesel to enter sump diluting the oil.

Itís a tough one but with your driving I would hazard a guess and say the more expensive petrol will not work out much more when you factor in cost of fuel per litre etc.

Offline gregers

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  • Posts: 1711
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  • Model: Transporter
  • Spec: vw t28 camper
  • First Name: greg
  • Region: East Midlands
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: S Max Buying Advice
« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2018, 11:52:06 PM »
when i bought my smax,it was 3 years old and had clocked up 100k as i drove it home so dont be put off by high milers.just make sure youve got checkable history,had it for 4/5 years and sold it to a dealer when it reached 125k.mine was an 08 tdci titanium,i work approx 6 miles from where i live never had any trouble with it,superb car.every couple of weeks took on the nearest duel carriageway and drove it like i stole it to clear out any crap.never failed mot on emissions.wasnt as good as the tdi galaxy on fuel but as it was a 140bhp wasnt expecting it to be.back rear most seats are a tad tight especially if your kids reach 6 foot.lol.
vw t5 camper van.
reality is for people with no imagination
rip dad 21/12/10
rip mum 3/5/16
rip bruv 11/5/17
The FordMPV.com Forum - The free forum for questions and answers relating to the Ford Galaxy, S-Max and C-Max

Offline mike wilson

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  • Posts: 467
  • Thanked: 19
  • Model: Galaxy Mk3
  • Spec: 14 TitX 2.0TDCI
  • Region: North East
  • Country: United Kingdom
Re: S Max Buying Advice
« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2018, 11:29:48 AM »
My 1.8 Mondeo does 50mpg+ on a long run and about 40-43mpg around the houses - I could get it higher if I wanted.  And it needs new injectors.  BUT you have to drive both like a granny and with loads of anticipation (neither of which are entirely bad things) to do that.  Models based on this floorpan are big, heavy machines.  A petrol engined machine will be hitting mid/high forties on a run and low 20s around the houses.  You would be really hard-pressed to improve on those numbers.

For me, the issues that the 1.8 has are tolerable over the ones of the 2 and 2.2 litre diesels.  It _is_ a bit of a revmonster compared to the usual run of diesels - doesn't like slogging and it's not good for it.  If you can find one with concrete proof that both belts have been done and there is substantial time left on that service item (or you can get a substantial reduction - say close to £1k) I would go for it.  Steer clear of ones that are over 100k miles and not changed yet - the belt could go at any time.  Get the seller to deliver it to your choice of mechanic for changing and pay for the car there.  8-)

I wouldn't contemplate a petrol car ever again.

 

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